It doesn’t matter if you work with lace professionally or for pleasure. This beautiful fabric has endless possibilities. It is for a good reason that white lace wedding dresses are expensive. Working with lace requires a lot of time and skill. The construction is labor-intensive and involves couture sewing techniques. The end result is worth the effort.
What is lace fabric?
Lace fabric has been made for centuries. Fabric lace, in its most refined form, is a delicate and beautiful textile. The open web-like construction is made of yarn or thread. Cotton, linen, and silk are the most common types of yarns in white lace. Lace is a unique fabric because it’s made up of lace that has been looped and braided.
Synthetic yarns also find wide use. The yarns are usually dyed white for the most common applications.
What is lace used for?
The most popular and well-known lace is white lace. Wedding dresses love this fabric because it adds refinement, elegance and combines both traditional and modern values. It is versatile and easy to mix with other fabrics.
Fashion and interiors often dye white lace fabric. Fashion designers often choose black and gray lace fabrics. These lace colors can give the fabric a more modern edge with their darker tones. The Gothic fashion trend is represented by black lace fabric combined with florals.
What are the different types of lace fabric?
There are several types of lace. They range in color and in construction, based on where the lace is made. The styles of lace are classified depending on their manufacturing process. These include:
- Knitted lace – a lace so fine that it can be pulled through an item as small as a wedding ring (hence “wedding ring shawl”)
- Tape lace – makes the tape in the lace as it is worked; can be made by machine or hand. This is then joined and embellished with needle or bobbin lace
- Bobbin lace – a lace made with bobbins and a pillow. Chantilly lace is a form of bobbin lace
- Needle lace – lace made using a needle and thread. Seen as the highest form of lace making
- Crochet lace – originally considered one of the easiest to make
- Knotted lace – includes macramé
- Cutwork – constructed by removing threads from a woven background. The threads that remain are filled with embroidery. Embroidered lace fabric is a popular choice for interiors and fashion.
The history and its origin
Many experts dispute the origins of lace. Evidence points to Italian claims that lace was invented in 1493. There is a Flemish claim dating back to 1485. It is impossible to pinpoint the origin of lace.
Lace was developed quickly, both in terms of construction and demand, in the 16 thcentury. At this time, needle and bobbin laces were the most popular. Lace was used to embellish interiors and fashion. Lace was used to enhance clothing details like collars and sleeves, and it was seen as a sign of style and wealth.
How to work with lace at home
Lace’s mesh-like appearance gives it a feminine and delicate aesthetic. When working with lace, it is important to understand how to work with it.
Lace is a beautiful fabric. To get the desired result, it takes a lot of time and effort. Most seamstresses consider lace to be the most difficult and time-consuming fabric to sew. It takes patience and a lot of planning. It is very different to make lace and then work with it. Make sure you have all the tools you need before you begin sewing lace.
You will need:
- Fine sewing pins
- The correct needles. They need to be super sharp and if you are working with stretchy lace fabric, you will also need stretch needles
- A sewing machine with the right settings. To sew with lace, you will need a sewing machine that will sew in a zigzag or a serger machine to sew the seams
- A full pattern piece – to achieve a seamless look, each pattern piece you use needs to be a full pattern piece. Cut it on a single layer of lace. This is so important, as it allows you to match motifs when planning to cut your lace
Prepare the fabric
We always recommend to pre-wash your lace to get rid of any substances left over from the factory. You should also lay it out on a flat surface so it can stretch and breathe. Try leaving it over night or for several hours, so any wrinkles can relax and fall out.
Once your lace is ready, you need to determine the type of lace fabric you have. Depending on which lace you are working with, you will need to adopt the correct technique for sewing. These are:
- Sheer lace – this style of lace is very transparent and it will require a lining
- Fully patterned lace – it is possible that this style will need to be partly lined
- Stretchy lace fabric – slightly more complex, as this style requires a technique for both the lace and the stretch
Your project’s outcome will be determined by the type of lace you select. You should also consider the border of the lace and how it will be used to finish the design. Is it scalloped or straight? It can transform a sleeve, or a hem, into something completely different. The color of the lining that you choose to go with your lace will also affect the overall look of your project. Always enhance the beauty and never compete with the lace.
What to do with lace fabric?
Lace is available in a wide variety of styles, colors, and constructions. This makes it a very versatile textile. The lace is stretchy and has been added with elastane to give it more flexibility. Fashion designers love this material. The stretchy lace fabric is a popular textile because it not only offers the traditional aesthetics of fabric lace but also provides comfort and movement.
Some of the most popular uses for fabric lace include:
- Trimmings
- Appliques
- Clothing
- Wedding dresses
- Collars
- Brooches
- Table cloths
- Curtains
- Doilies
How lace is used these days
Lace is popular for interiors such as curtains, drapes and throws. It can also be used to create details. Lace drapery fabrics can bring distinction, sophistication and effortless style into your home. It can be modern and stylish when done correctly. The days of “old-fashioned lace curtains” are long gone.
Fabric lace is a modern concept that might seem dated. Fashion and design students use this unique fabric in their creations, catapulting them into contemporary fashion design.
The Sophie Hallette University Design Challenge
Sophie Hallette is working with international renowned colleges all over the world. The challenge pushed fashion students and designers to create revolutionary designs using Sophie Hallette Lace. Twelve finalists worked on their collections to be displayed on the final catwalk.
Who is Sophie Hallette?
The House of Sophie Hallette has been a leader in the design and manufacture of lace for over 130 years. The House of Sophie Hallette has been a pioneer in textile and fashion for over 130 years. Its original designs have been used by fashion houses such as Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain and worn by icons like Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Kennedy.
New talents
Joao Paulo Elias, a finalist from the London College of Fashion chose Contrado to create his final designs. Joao came to Contrado’s HQ to work with us on his final designs. We were able produce stunning digital prints to compliment his amazing designs.
The pieces that were created for this challenge pushed the boundaries of creativity, and used lace in a way never seen before. Students colored, embellished and dyed lace, as well as other fabrics. Silhouettes for both men and women were bold yet wearable.
The final collections showed the future of Lace. Lace is no longer a traditional material, but a fabric that is brimming over with style and modernity. It has earned a place in the history of fashion and will continue to push boundaries for many seasons to come.